Wednesday 19 October 2016

Jeongbang waterfall

The volcanic peak of Jeju, Hallasan, the highest peak in Korea, is a magnet for hikers. The gradient is tolerable despite its 1950 metre height. However it takes a few hours each way so one has to start early as the trail is closed before midday so that hikers can return before sundown.

Unfortunately the night before I had dined in a hof (obviously adapted from German), which is a place serving chimaek, fried or baked chicken with beer. In Korea, Taiwan and probably Japan, servings are assumed to be shared by two, so my plate was filling, but not overly. But I had a sore throat the next morning. And I could not see the peak from my hotel window. If you can't see the peak from town, then you cannot see the town from the peak. So I decided to be unadventurous, slept in and visited Seogwipo's two waterfalls later that day.

It was a short walk from the gates of the park entrance to the ticket office. After passing the barrier, you can view Jeongbang waterfall from the top of the steps. It is claimed to be the only waterfall in Asia that falls directly into the ocean. Well it was a sheltered cove but connected to the ocean.

Legend has it that Emperor Chin of China sent a servant to fetch magical herbs of eternal life from Hallasan but he failed to find any. When passing these falls he left an inscription on the cliff face.

In the hazy distance, the port of Seogwipo and an offshore island can be seen.

On the rocky shore fishmongers were plying their wares.

The falls get more impressive as you approach. You can see that the water from a stream falls off a plateau.

Another shot of the seafood sellers and customers.

Lots of photo opportunities.

Returning from the attraction, this was a quiet park near the car park and part of the Jeju Olle trail.

This is the stream that becomes the waterfall. I crossed it on the way in.

You can see the edge of the fall here.

Leaving the park I walked across the shore road of Seogwipo. This sculpture is a tribute to Lee Jung Seob, who died in 1956. He fled to Jeju during the Korean war but life was hard. The sculpture represents his work with awl on silver cigarette paper in this period. His Japanese wife took his two children back to Japan. He exhibited in Seoul upon return to the capital but failed to earn a living. He took to drink and died in 1956. An art gallery and street are named after him in Seogwipo.

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